Q: Can you print on leather with Permaset Inks?
A: It will work, possibly better than any other water based inks on the market, but only to a degree.
In natural leathers, the enemy is the wax surface treatment. This viscosity of the ink will hold the ink in place after printing + during drying, but as wax is a) intrinsically mobile (i.e. not chemically bonded) & from this b) often used as a lubricant, obtaining a secure or permanent bond to the underlying substrate is impossible in fact waxes are often used as release agents.
In synthetic leathers, especially vinyls, the enemy is the plasticiser in the film. You may be able to get a great bond initially, but the plasticiser will migrate to the surface over time.
If you are using something like a suede or microsuede, that’s a different story, as you can get bond onto the actual fibre, but any glossy leather (except perhaps patent leather), the above heavy qualification apply!
Q: I'm printing on various garments with standard Permaset aqua white with air drying it, then curing it with an iron for about 5 mins or until most steam/smoke has gone. I'm still having cracks happen. Why is this?
A: If you’re ironing @ 160’C for 5 minutes, then you are probably over-curing, which would lead to embrittlement and subsequent cracking. Also, if printing on really stretch fabric, a degree of cracking may be unavoidable.
Q: Do you have an ink that can be screened/stenciled on an open weave type fabric like hessian that can be air dried?
A: You could use Permaset Aqua or SuperCover, but would need to leave in the sun to UV cure (a little). Air drying alone will not give adequate cure. Failure to cure will result in the print having very poor was & rub resistance.
If the piece is small enough, once air dried, it can be folded & left in an oven @ lowish heat (say 90’C ~194’F) for an hour or so to accelerate the cure process.
Q: I want to print on exotic substrates like umbrellas & Poly Propylene tote bags. What inks should I use?
A: Permaset Umbrella ink is suitable for more exotic substrates like umbrellas & Poly Propylene tote bags that require higher opacity, a degree of flexibility but have to be air-dried due to heat sensitivity of the substrate.
Q: Which paint is best for Polypropylene substrate?
A: Our inks are all water-based and while that confers certain exceptional benefits, it will not maintain great abrasion resistance, flexibility and bonding between the paint and the substrate.
Some form of UV ink would probably be the best option.
Q: I am printing on polycarbonate/ ABS plastic. What Inks should I use?
A: If you’re printing on polycarbonate, PermaPrint Premium is the product of choice.
Q: How do I print on Nylon using Permaset Inks?
A: To print on Nylon, first check that the surface hasn’t been pre-treated with water repellent. Use Permaset SUPERCOVER (2 hits through something like a 77T mesh). For best results do not cure with an iron, rather use a heat gun or hair dryer.
Q: Can you print on wood with any of your Inks?
A: Permaset and Permaprint Premium Inks can be very effective for printing on wood.
Q: Can Permaset Inks be used on raw cane?
A: Rather than Permaset, try our PermaPrint Premium Inks. They are an air dry product & will have much better (uncured) abrasion resistance than Permaset.
Q: What can I use for screen printing onto a nylon shade cloth?
A: Permaset SuperCover has flexibility, high pigment content & very high resin content, thus optimizing likelihood of staying on. The ink needs to be cured to achieve any degree of rub resistance, but happily, curing can be achieved simply by exposure to the sun! The downside is that it’s not controlled & would take some time, so care should to be exercised immediately post print until the print starts to cure.
Q: Can I print on Neoprene wet suit material with Permaset?
A: Permaset Supercover white will work, but would need to be dried possibly with a hair dryer and so long as it has been cured, it should be wash resistant. The rub resistant qualities however may leave a little to be desired so possibly not on the chest, but ok on the outside of arms legs or back.
Q: I have purchased Permaset retarder but not sure how to use it. How much of it I should use?Can I use a tumble dry to set the ink?
A: Printing Retarder is normally added in amounts up to 3% (i.e. 30ml per 1L of Permaset) of the total volume of product. Due to varying temperatures and conditions it is difficult to predict the actual amount of Printing Retarder required. Generally, the higher the temperature, the lower the humidity and the higher the airflow of air in the printing environment, then the higher the amount of Printing Retarder required.
Q: What was your average flash and cure time for the ink as well as the ideal temperature while using a Ranar Da1616 120V?
A: We generally like to keep flash times pretty short, so 1” to 4” max. If you have a spare station, it’s useful to follow the flash with a cool-down station with air blowing across. This will do two things; first, it will cool the platen down (more on that later) and second, it will remove more moisture, for the same amount of heat input, so you can back that off even further.
The reason that we like to keep the platens cool is that, if they carry heat on to subsequent print stations, it ends up warming the ink and exacerbates drying-in issues, which is one of the biggest bug-bears that water-based ink users have to overcome. So, you can run the flash unit with less power and keep the whole room a better temperature for working in.
Before we leave flashing, flash time and temp will depend on what ink type you’re using (Standard Permaset, Permatone or SuperCover) and the % of the area that is printed. For example, a large solid image printed with will need a deeper flash than a few lines with std Permaset Aqua.
Next to curing; we can’t really make recommendations on curing with flash units as there are way too many variables. Amount of ink, ambient temperature, amount of ink to be cured, moisture content of the garment, capacity of the flash unit, distance from the garment and so the list goes on. Our recommended cure regime is 3 minutes @ 320’F in a tunnel dryer.
Another concern with flash dryers is that there is quite a high risk of scorching the garment, particularly if they have synthetic content. Our general belief is that a heat press would be a more stable/reproducible proposition (+ most likely faster). If all you have is the flash unit, then we can only suggest experimentation. It might be a pain, but we’d suggest keeping a note book, recording as many parameters as you can and stapling cured and wash/rub tested samples alongside your production notes. It will be a lot of work but eventually, this will become an invaluable resource for you.
If in doubt, talk to the flash unit manufacturer. They’d have more experience with their own products than we do.
Q: How long should I cure cotton tote bags after they have been fully air dried?
A: Around an hour should be a useful guide!
How do I cure Permaset prints if I don't have a heat tunnel?
There are two easy ways to cure Permaset prints if you don’t have a heat tunnel:
- With an Iron: Leave your print to air dry first. Then lay your print out on the ironing board, cover it with brown paper, baking paper or a clean tea towel. Set your iron to Cotton setting (160 degrees C) and hand iron for 2-3 minutes to set the print. Wait for your print to cool and then it should be cured, and able to be washed.
- In the Sun: It depends on the heat of the Sun, however you can leave your print to cure in the hot Sun for a few hours up to a 1/2 day, or even one whole day to cure it. Test this method on a scrap of fabric printed with Permaset to check how long it takes to cure before curing your finished print in the Sun.
Q: Are Permaset inks environmentally friendly?
A: Yes. Permaset inks are formulated to be environmentally friendly. Permaset is a water based ink which does not include any CFC’s, HCFC’s, volatile solvents or aromatic hydrocarbons and unlike other brands it is also Phthalate free.
Q: Are the colours of Permaset inks bright although it is a water based ink?
A: Yes, the colours of the Permaset inks are bright. Permaset was developed to connect the advantages of water based inks (softness) and plastisols (durability) while achieving excellent colour brightness and being rich in coverage.
Q: Can I dry-clean artwork done with Permaset inks?
A: Yes, you can. Permaset inks are excellent dry-clean and wash resistance.
Q: Can I mix the Permaset inks?
A: Yes, all can be mixed. Mixing Super Cover Colours with Standard Colours may affect the opacity on dark backgrounds; on light backgrounds mixing is no problem.
Q: Can I use Permaset for printing on dark backgrounds?
A: Yes, you can print on dark backgrounds with Permaset inks. Especially for this purpose we developed the range Supercover Colours and Supercover Glow Colours which are excellent for covering dark backgrounds and receiving rich colours.
Q: Do I have to prepare the ink before applying it onto the artwork?
- Stir Permaset inks well before use and
- We recommend testing the compatibility with all substrates before commencing a production run
Q: Do Permaset inks include any solvents?
A: No. It is a 100% solvent free water based textile ink.
Q: Do Permaset inks include any toxic chemicals?
A: No. Permaset inks do not include any toxic chemicals.
Q: Do Permaset inks smell?
A: No. Permaset is low in odour.
Q: Have Permaset Inks been tested on animals?
A: No animal products or animal by-products used in the making of our Inks.
Further, none of our products are tested on animals.
Ingredients are certified GMO free & the Permatone range has been Approved by the Soil Association as complying with the Global Organic Textile Standard.
Q: Will Permaset Inks be ok to use on a screen with a 90 mesh?
A: Yes, they will, but a number of caveats apply. Standard Permaset inks have been used commercially through 120T (metric) mesh, but the finer the mesh, the greater the propensity to dry in. 90T will work, but you need to keep the image area flooded between prints and work relatively quickly!
Q: Should you print 'on' or 'off contact' when using Permaset aqua standard inks on cotton fabrics (printing yardage, not t-shirts)?
A: It depends on the depth of the fabric! For nice heavy T-shirt material, you might go 2-3mm, all the way up to a full cm if printing on fleecies.
Q: Can use the Permaset Aqua ink products directly onto cotton t-shirts using a paint-brush simply dipped into the ink or whether they have to be used in a screen printing process?
Q: Can you use emulsion and sensitizer technique with the full permaset screen printing kit?
A: Yes indeed you can!
Q: Can your metallic range of colors be used to paint on rubber?
A: Yes, but not well. You would first need to scrub off the wax layer on the surface and then the print it would only last until the wax exuding from the rubber pushed it off.
Q: What's the best way to get accidental ink OFF clothing during a print.
A: Very quickly (i.e. whilst still wet!) and using a spot remover.
Q: Can you use Permaset on concrete?
A: Permaset is not suitable for use on concrete. If you are looking to put paint on a wall then our Permaplastik product would be suitable. More info is available here: https://www.permaset.com.au/permaplastik/
Q: Is there a way to make Permaset Inks more translucent?
A: To make the ink translucent, just keep on adding Print Paste/Reducer.
Actually, if you want it REALLY translucent, probably best to start the other way; i.e. start with Print Paste and add very little amounts of particularly the darker colours until desired intensity is achieved.
Q: Can I use permaset to print onto glossy ribbon?
A: Depends on what it’s made of.
If it’s satin, yes.
If it’s plastic, no.
Q: What is the major difference between FIRST DOWN WHITE and SUPERCOVER WHITE?
A: SUPERCOVER WHITE is our premium opaque white. It has the highest levels of titanium dioxide pigment and binder for use on dark coloured fabrics. Excellent opacity in a water based ink!
FIRST DOWN WHITE is used as an under-base or flash white by Trade printers who wish to print on dark fabrics but use regular Aqua colours to retain their superior softness and vibrancy. Normally used only with multi-station print facilities.
Q: Is there a recommended proportion of print paste to ink? How much is too much and does it stiffen the fabric?
A: Print Paste is essentially clear ink, so can be blended in any proportion from 0% to 100%. It should not affect the handle at all.
Q: How do the four process colours differ from the standard Aqua range?
A: The process colours are designed to work with process colour separation technology & are used for most standard paper printing (mags, newspapers etc) to convert photographs into something printable. In the Permaset range, they sometimes contain slightly different pigments or pigment blends at different concentrations to the standard Aqua colours. With practice, you may be able to achieve similar results.
Q: Is Permaset suitable for Baby Wear?
A: Rather than the standard Permaset range, we’d suggest that you look at our Permatone range.
That range has been tested by an Oekotex approved laboratory to Oekotex Class I for formaldehyde content ( less than 16ppm on finished print). This result means that it meets criteria approved safe for use on clothing for infants less than 2 years old.
The other Approval that we have for that range is from the Soil Association in the UK as an input into a Certified Organic Textile printing process.
Permatone was only the 6th range of textile ink to achieve that approval and the first from outside the UK.
That Approval means that it complies to GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard Version III).
Q: Which emulsion do you recommend for use with Permaset Aqua?
A: SERICOL Dirasol 916, KIWO Polyplus SRX, ULANO LX-660 or CHROMALINE CP-TEX
Q: Is Permaset Aqua safe for septic systems?
A: If your septic system can cope with shampoo, then it should be able to cope with Permaset, but we really don’t like people, particularly commercial operators, putting Permaset down the drain. We figure that if you’re generating waste as part of a commercial process, then you should put some commercial facilities around waste treatment.
First step is minimisation. Ink off the screen can go back into the original container, or preferably, into a spare CLEAN container. We prefer the spare container in case the ink has picked up some contamination on the screen or from the atmosphere, it doesn’t spread to the unused/virgin material in the original tub.
Next step is minimizing the amount washed off the screen. Wipe off as much as you can with paper towels and damp rags and dispose of them to landfill.
Washing/Rinsing your screens: you should be using high pressure water and three lots of water; the dirtiest water first is to remove the bulk of the ink residues. The next dirtiest used to almost clean the screen and use fresh water only for the final rinse. These 3 sets of water should each be used in a closed system and kept for maybe a week, depending on your volume/throughput. At the end of each week, the dirtiest water is “retired” and treated for disposal, the 2nd dirtiest is moved to where the dirtiest was, the cleanest is moved into the 2nd stage area and you start building up the “clean” water again from fresh water rinsings.
To dispose of the dirtiest water, allow to settle completely + decant what you can of the clean water. Strain the solids out of what you have left and leave in the sun to dry. These dry solids can then be disposed of as landfill.
There are commercial screen washing units available (Franmar may have one or Remco Chemie should also have units). There should also be good sustainability information along the above lines somewhere on the SGIA web-site.
Q: Is it possible to dilute Permaset Aqua to a painting consistency so I can paint and then print over the top?
A: It is possible to dilute but you run a few risks, unless you want something like a water colour wash in the background.
The viscosity optimized for printing (thin under shear, set up immediately shear is removed) so you’ll see every brush stroke and, as the ink colour is exceptionally intense, there will be differences in colour expression related to relatively small differences in film thickness that you may not be used to.
If you DO want a water colour background wash, I’d strongly recommend dampening the cloth before you start or else you’ll get strong colour lines or tide marks around the edge of the applied area.
Either way, we suggest experimentation on spare bits of fabric first.
Q: Are the Permaset ranges suitable for automatic machine screen printing, and if so how should you approach it?
A: Yes, Permaset is suitable for use on automatic machines. It has 40% market share for water-based ink in Australia and by far the bulk of the volumes Is used on automatics.
To do this most effectively & particularly to prevent drying in, you should:
- Ensure that the emulsion that they use is both:Leave the screen/image area FLOODED between prints. It only needs to be 2-3 mm over the image area, but failure to do this will result in drying in within minutes if not seconds.
- Water resistant amp;
- Fully cured
- There is a Blog posting on our website about converting from plastisols to water-based. That will give you a lot of good tips also.
- With the retarder, 2-3% is typical, BUT…..whilst improving open time on screen, it will significantly increase the drying burden in the curing oven and is to be discouraged to the maximum degree possible.
- When cleaning the screens, it is advisable to leave them on the carousel flooded until ready to clean. If you have 12 people available to clean screens, then by all means have them wiped at the same time. Otherwise, the recommended approach would be to leave them all flooded and manually scrape them only as you are ready to clean each one.
- If flashing between prints, minimise heating of platens as this will exacerbate drying in & hot pick-up issues at down-stream print stations.
Q: What type of Hi-Vis colours do you have? Mainly for night and day bicycle riding.
A: If you’re looking for colours for cycling apparel, then we suggest you look @ PERMASET rather than PermaPrint.
We have 8 colours that we call GLOW but are really fluorescent in each of the std and SuperCover (Opaque) ranges.
They are GLOW YELLOW, ORANGE, RED, PINK, MAGENTA, VIOLET, BLUE and GREEN.
The std colours are designed for light coloured cloth.
The SuperCover range is for Dark coloured cloth….more opaque, but more expensive and stiffer handle.
Note: whilst the colours that we use have been found adequate for most commercial purpose over many years, they would not normally last >3 months continuous exposure to direct sunlight.
Q: Can I use Permaset inks to print onto stockings?
A: Unfortunately we don’t think this would be very successful as the fibre would be very sheer, so not much to hold onto and curing would be a big problem too as we suspect that the fibre would react adversely to high temperature.
Q: Are Permaset inks Vegan?
A: There is no bone char or other animal products in the black or any other colour. Vegetable extracts are certified GMO free. The PermaTone range + the Permaset Process colours have been formally Approved by the Soil Association of the UK.
The other ranges are built on the same chemicals but have not been through the certification process. From our perspective, they are Vegan safe.
Should you require further information, please feel free to contact Pete + Hannah @ I Dress Myself in Frome firstname.lastname@example.org. They are eco-friendly screen printers who have been using Permaset for years.
Q. How many times can I wash Permaset before it starts to bleach out?
A. Permaset has been tested in the lab and we washed 30 times at 60°C and found no sign of deterioration. We have not done any more than that.
Q. What is the difference between Supercover , Standard and Permatone inks?
A. Std Permaset is for light coloured fabrics, Supercover is for dark coloured fabrics and Permatone is developed as a a colour matching system.
Q. Can I blend Permaset colours together?
A. Yes you can, however mix the standard range with standard and the Supercover range with only supercover. The 2 ink types have different thickness types and so are not ideal for blending together. One customer uses an egg whisk to blend his colours!
Q. I want to screen print using photo emulsions?
A. Permaset can be used however you must use a water resistant emulsion and it must be fully cured. Failure to cure will result in emulsion breakdown under the squeegee.
Q. Can I add reflective beads to the Permaset inks and print?
A. We would suggest you would need to use the Supercover range, however we do not know how they would adhere in the ink. Depending on the diameter of the beads, you might need a very coarse mesh, say 32T or possibly 20-22T.
Q. What is the shelf life of Permaset once opened?
A. You should get at least 12 months, even longer as long as the ink lid is kept on tightly and no germs get inside the ink. Unused ink should be stored in a spare container and may be used again at the start of the next run.
Q. Which mesh size should I use for Supercovers?
A. (110t mesh-230t/in), (43-91t/cm)
Q. Does your ink adhere to vinyl?
A. We have done tests on cleat vinyl film with Permaprint Premium and it works, however will soften over time and there’s lots of plasticiser migration. This can be reduced by wiping the film down with Acetone. The plasticiser can migrate easily out of the film and into the ink and make the ink tacky forever and the ink can be smeared/scratched off easily so will not have very good wear resistance.
Q. Can I use Permaset Gold Lustre on dark fabrics?
A. Yes you can. The metallic range is suitable for dark and light fabrics.
Q. I printed tea towels and after drying, washed them and the ink came off. Where did I go wrong?
A. If the ink comes off the garment then the ink was not cured correctly. Please go to our section on curing inks.
Q. What emulsion should I use with Permaset?
A. Ulano 925WR or Ulano TZ (dual cure)
Q. Is there a way of thinning Permaset?
A. Yes you can thin Permaset with print paste, however you will lose colour intensity. Please refer to the Air Brushing section for the method of thinning Permaset.
Q. What's the difference between standard black and process black? Can you describe the process colours such as cyan, magenta and yellow?
A. Process colours are strength controlled. Process black is stronger than Standard black. Let us assume Inkjet ink that is used in everyday printers, in that there are Black ink cartridge and Colour ink cartridge. If you have noticed, in the Colour ink cartridge there are three colour slots viz. Magenta, Cyan and Yellow. To get various desired colours the proportions of these 3 colours are mixed in varied amounts to get that colour. Similarly we have Process Magenta, Cyan and Yellow ink colours, blend of which can give various colours.
Q: How do you use Permaset inks when block printing?
A: With “normal” litho type/lino block inks, they tend to be a lot stickier & being oil based, dry more slowly so that:
a) You’d generally use a brayer (hard rubber roller) to spread the ink out on the lino block &
b) The ink stays wet until printed, so you get quite a long time to get organized after rolling it out
With Permaset primarily designed for screen printing and secondly being 100% solvent free (water based):
c) You’d need to use a soft SPONGE roller to spread the ink out (a normal brayer would just skid all over the lino block) &
d) You’d need to get well set up before you put the ink on, as the thin film will dry out a lot more quickly (though you can’t smell it, water actually evaporates faster at room temperature than things like turps).
e) As the ink is quite intensely coloured, you may need to cut the strength back by mixing with Print Paste/Extender (essentially clear ink). However, you’ll only know that after some experimentation.
If you can modify your work practices to accommodate the above, then you can fully exploit the superior technical performance of Permaset as a textile ink; soft handle, brilliant colours, excellent wash + dry clean resistance (after heat curing).
Q: Can you put the Permaset colours through an airbrush?
A: We know that people have used standard Permaset Aqua through an Airbrush, but we’re not sure about Permaset SuperCovers. If you do want to use an airbrush, then you need to look into thinning Permaset it as follows:
1) Buy some sulphate of ammonia (from gardening shop)
2) Make up 10% solution in water
3) Add solution in drops to into ink to be thinned with VIGOROUS stirring after each addition
This process will serve to thin the ink ready for airbrushing.
Q: I have heard you can mist the screen slightly with water to keep it moist in between shots. How does this work?
A: Misting the screens or rather the INK whilst printing is good practice. However, what will help you set up and through the course of the run is if you give the mesh fibres a drink before they start. Spray the image area liberally before starting. Allow ~10 minutes for the water to be absorbed into the micro-pores of the screen mesh, then wipe off excess moisture with a damp sponge or cloth. This will greatly reduce the propensity of the ink to dry in on the screen, a problem that is more acute the finer the mesh you use. Then, if you keep the ink topped up with a quick mist every few prints, that will keep you printing with much fewer interruptions.
Q: I find that the ink dries quickly when its warm and I'm wondering if there's a medium I can mix in with the textile ink?
A: If you leave the image area flooded between prints, that should be a BIG help. If you are still having problems, add 1-3% of Permaset Retarder G.
Q. How do I prevent Supercover White drying in my screen?
- Ensure screen is clean
- Before starting print run, soak screen in water for 5 mins. Allow to drain and dab off excess water with damp (lint free) sponge.
- Have a spray bottle handy with water and add 1-3% of Printing Retarder ie 10mL/litre
- ALWAYS leave the print area flooded between prints
- If the flooded area starts to look a bit dull, then spray until the ink looks glossy again
13. How do I clean my screens after printing?
Use Sericol CPS KAS or A* screenwash, which should be available from your local Permaset distributor.
Q: Is there a recommended ratio range of Puff Paste to ink?
A: The more puff paste you add, the more it puffs, but the weaker the colour. There is no recommended ratio.
Q: How do you use the Permaset Puff Paste?
A: The Puff Paste can be mixed with either standard colours or SuperCovers from 0-100%.
The more Puff you have, the greater the 3D effect but the lower the colour.
Conversely, the less Puff you have, the greater the colour but the less noticeable the 3D effect.
Q: On your website it states that Puff Paste may be used with “standard colours or with pigment concentrates”. Does that imply it can’t be used with Supercover inks?
A: Puff Paste works on standard Permaset Aqua, Pigment Concentrates and Permaset SuperCover Ink. In fact it would actually work better on the SuperCovers as they are more highly pigmented. As the Puff is a complete ink in it’s own right, the colour concentrates make a lot of sense, but if you don’t have them, then the SuperCovers would be the next best thing.
Q: Is there any difference to the curing / heat setting technique when using Puff Paste?
A: When curing Puff Paste, ensure that the prints have been air dried or heated @ 60oC (140oF) until dry. Once the Puff Paste is dry, cure for 4-5 minutes @ 145oC (295oF) for optimum print performance. As a caveat, if you overcure the Puff, the little air-bubbles explode & they collapse, leaving a very unattractive thick plasticky film.
Q: What is the difference between "Clear" and "Aquatone Extender"?
A: EXTENDER is ink with no coloured pigment in it, so you can use it to “extend” the ink or simply reduce the colour strength/intensity. CLEAR is a gloss varnish that can be used either to over print the entire design, to pick out certain design elements or even by itself to creates tricks of light/interesting patterns.
Q: I am attempting to handprint my own wallpaper with Permaprint Premium Ink (PPP). It seems more runny than Permaset Inks and I am having trouble with bleed through. What can I do?
A: PPP inks are very intense, so u should use a 157 screen mesh as a standard or even 195. You may run into issues of drying in on the screen, but to counter that, you can run a humidifier.
Q: What screen mesh should I use for the Permaprint Premium Inks?
A: We recommend a mesh range of 83-305 tpi for Standard Products and 85-255 for the Pearl Colours and Matting Agent
Q: What does the CLEAR GLOSS do?
A: CLEAR GLOSS can be mixed with the base colours to provide more transparent/glossier inks. These look exceptional over metallic substrates such as metalized mylar and brushed metalized mylar. It can be applied on top and can also be used as a clear ink to create interesting patterns that look flat straight on but ornate when seen at an angle against a light showing up the play of light on areas of different gloss.
Q: How can I avoid deposits of ink in the mesh and prevent premature drying-in with Permaprint Premium Inks?
A: When printing with Permaprint Premium it is essential to flood the image area after lifting the screen following each print stroke. Small deposits of waterbased ink retained in the mesh following printing will dry extremely fast.
By flooding straight away fresh ink will wet out these deposits and prevent premature drying-in.
- Using a lot of ink on the screen to get a nice thick flood
- Giving a frequent light mist with water. Depending on how dry the air is where you’re printing, this might need to be one every few prints
- Sometimes a slightly lower mesh count. Maybe drop to a 195t
Q: I am using Permaprint Premium on to some very fine grained ceder and I am getting an effect which looks a bit like an egg's shell (little tiny blobs of thicker ink over the image)?
A: This effect is known as orange peel which is caused by a process known as crawling. This can often be caused or exacerbated by silicone contamination of the surface.
If you can sand the surface back with some very fine sandpaper, that might help. Alternatively, you might like to try the Permaprint Premium Opaque White. This has higher viscosity and would thus be less susceptible to crawling. You could also try a finer mesh so that you’re putting the ink down drier. However, You may need multiple hits to get the right film weight.
Q: What's the difference between the Permaprint Premium Opaque White & the Premium Aquatone White?
A: The Opaque White is much higher opacity (more highly pigmented) & intended for printing over dark substrates. The Aquatone White is for use in the colour management system.
BOTH products & indeed all the Permaprint Premium range are designed for use on Paper &/or other rigid substrates. It should not be used on textiles as it has a much stiffer handle and very little to no wash or dry clean resistance.
Q: Can I use Permaprint Premium Ink to print onto PVC or vinyl substrates?
A: Our Permaprint Premium Ink is the only ink in our range that can stick to vinyl, however the plasticisers in vinyl can migrate to the surface, rewetting the ink once dried, thus compromising rub resistance, particularly in high abrasion applications (shoes, handbags etc). Permaprint Premium may not give a long term result.
Q: What is the difference between Permaprint Premium ink and Permaprint Premium Aquatone ink?
A: Permaprint Aquatone is a colour management system which can be used to match over 950 colours. The Aquatone range includes 12 bases (9 colours, plus black, white and extender). The rest of the range are the more exotic colours including fluoros, pearls, process colours, gloss & matt varnishes and opaque white. The Permaprint range is water-based and has excellent archival properties along with UV resistance.
Q: When is Permaprint Premium ink recommended for use over Permaset ink?
Permaprint Premium is ideal for use onto sealed paper, cardboard, tyvek, polyesters (mylar), polycarbonates (lexan), some coated metals and poly-styrene. The cross linking chemistry in Permaset that makes it great for textiles, confers other properties to the ink film that are not conducive to archival print life expectancy on paper. So, if archival durability is important, then Permaprint Premium is the product of choice.
Q: Can you provide pointers for improving opacity with pearls when printing with Permaprint Premium ink?
A: Given the high solids in Permaprint Premium and consequent low free water content, there may be issues with closing in on finer meshes. Fine meshes and large particle size also work against high print opacity. So, particularly for the Permaprint Premium Pearl Gold, you may need to double pump the print. The other colours seem to perform better than the Gold, opacity wise, but it is expected that all would benefit from double or more print strokes.